Sacred London

     There are over fifty churches in the City of London. You might think that sounds about right considering the size of London, but to be more specific, there are over fifty churches in the district of London known as The City of London (or just The City). This district is actually only a small portion of central London and covers an area of just over one square mile. So in a mere square mile there are over fifty churches. Wow! That's an enormous density, probably only rivaled by Rome. I recently acquired a Guide to City of London Churches from the library and set a challenge for myself... to visit every church in the City. Well I've started this journey already by ticking six churches off a list of fifty-six. The churches I visited are some of the most significant in western Christendom and provided beautiful portals into the past. All of these fifty-six churches have incredible stories of survival, destruction, restoration and salvation, and visiting them has become something like a pilgrimage for me. I'm not just going to each in order to see a pretty building or a famous gravestone... I'm going to see where and how Christians (famous theologians, important scientists, heralded explorers, kings and even peasants) worshipped in this city. I don't know what I hope to find in these churches, but I can tell you, so far, spending a little time in each, has brought a greater tangibility to my understanding of the history of Christianity.

All Hallows by the Tower

     All Hallows by the Tower is the oldest church in the city of London, having been founded in AD 675 by St. Ethelburga (great name!). The church has been expanded and rebuilt a lot over it's long history, and it has a lot of very old morbid connections because it is located so near to The Tower of London (which was a the Royal residence and execution ground for hundreds of years). It even has some really cool American connections: William Penn, founder of Pennsylvania, was baptized here in 1644, and John Quincy Adams, 6th President of the United States, Married his wife Louisa here in 1797.

     During The great Fire of London, All Hallows was directly in the path of the massive blaze, but thanks to the quick thinking of our friend Samuel Pepys the church was saved. Pepys and some friends destroyed a bunch of buildings near the church so that the flames couldn't reach it. Sadly though, the German air raids of World War II caused extensive damage. Much of the structure of the church you see now is a result of painstaking restoration. One positive though is that the bombing unearthed a tiny chapel (or crypt) under the church that was previously hidden. The wall pictured to the right is from the original church built in the time of St. Ethelburga, and is one of the oldest man made structures in the entire city. It's called St. Francis's Chancel. I went down there thinking I was sure to get kicked out, but no, there was a sign inviting people to pray and find peace in the cool quiet. Being down there you truly feel like you've stepped back in time. All the sound from the modern world is hushed to a soft whooshing like a far away ocean. I found myself walking lightly as though the sound of my footsteps would disturb the profound silence of the room. I can see how this tiny chapel would have provided a solemn place of unadorned worship.

St. Clemet Eastcheap

     This church is really easy to miss (as you can see from the above picture). I was actually on my way to a different church when this one caught me off guard. It was named for a martyr, Clement, who is a patron saint of sailors, making this a once popular church for merchant sailors to attend. The name Eastcheap denotes it's location; "cheap" or "chepe" derives from the old Saxon word for market. Though there are clues dating the church back to the first century, the oldest recorded mention of the church is from AD 1207 (just after the founding of Huntingdon!). This church also claims to be the same St. Clemets from the old English nursery rhyme "Oranges and Lemons."

     St. Clement was one of the first Churches to be destroyed in the Great Fire. The church standing now was designed and built by Sir Christopher Wren, probably the most famous architect ever. After the Great Fire, he designed and rebuilt scores of buildings around London. The most impressive feature of this church is the impressive hand carved pieces, like the font cover of a caged dove, the ceiling details, the altarpiece (also called a reredos), and the gorgeous organ case. The thing I like most about this church is it's simple elegance. I sat in a pew and was able to appreciate the beautiful details with out being overwhelmed by kitsch.

St. Mary Woolnoth

St. Mary Woolnoth is a gorgeous and historically exciting church to visit. "Woolnoth" is believed to be a reference to a 12th century benefactor of the church, Wulnoth de Walebrok, and its full name is St. Mary Woolnoth of the Nativity. Usually it's the inside of these churches that is aesthetically pleasing, but the front facade of this church is (I think) equally stunning.  Though this site has been used as a place for pagan and Christian worship for 2,000 years, the current building was commissioned in 1711 by a parliamentary act calling for the building of fifty new churches in London surrounding suburbs, and it is one of only six churches in London built by famous British architect Nicholas Hawksmoor. His striking design takes full advantage of the uniquely unobstructed location. Most churches in London suffer from being smothered by shops and office blocks, but after the Great Fire many of the buildings surrounding St. Mary's were demolished... and I think it's for the better. Personally I find the location to be a nice pause in a sea of drab, characterless banks and offices.


The inside of this church is an English Baroque medley. I know I'm getting all "art student" with my terminology, so in leiu of definition, I'll just point out some of the design characteristics present at St. Mary's. The sanctuary is flooded with natural light, which makes the space feel airy and learned. The dark wood and stone of the pews and altar are offset by the brilliant white corinthian columns and and detailed plasterwork ceiling. It's as though the room reflects Christianity, with the dark sinful world being illuminated by heaven above. It's really a visual and intellectual feast!


I also got quite a treat when, upon remembering my Evangelical history, I went in search of some reference to John Newton or William Wilberforce (both of whom worshipped here). There on the wall was a large marble memorial to Newton, who had been rector of St. Mary Woolnoth, and is buried in the church's vault. Newton, a former slave trader, became an abolitionist . He was famous in his anti-slaver sermons and also for penning hymns such as "Amazing Grace." He wrote his memorial himself:

John Newton

Clerk.

Once an infidel and libertine, a servant of slaves in Africa, was, by the rich mercy of our Lord and Savior Jesus Christ, preserved, restored, pardoned, and appointed to preach the faith he had long laboured to destroy.

St. Olave Hart Street

     It has been described as a "country church," owing to it's size (one of the smallest in London) and the fact that it is one of the only medieval churches to survive the Great Fire. St. Olave dates back to the 13th century and is named for the patron saint of Norway, King Olaf II. Turns out King Olaf's army fought invading Danes way back in the day. This church (as well as a few others) was named for him by the some very appreciative Anglo-Saxons. The connections to Norway don't stop there either. During WWII, exiled King Haakon VI worshipped here until the end of the war. Another famous parish member, Samuel Pepys (this guy gets around!), worshipped here because it was across the street form The Admiralty, where he worked. There is a big marble memorial to him on one of the walls. Despite all the prestigious connections, the thing I like about this church the most is it's intimate atmosphere. You actually feel as though you could be in an old gothic church out in the countryside. It has a beautifully coffered ceiling, some not-overwhelming stained glass windows, and it even has brass sword rests attached to the end of each pew. Above the gate leading in to the tiny graveyard is a group of grinning skulls... appropriate considering the first plague victim, Mary Ramsay, is buried there. It was so unique that author Charles Dickens used it as the basis for a fictional church, St. Ghastly Grim.

St. Margaret Pattens

     St. Margaret Pattens is another church that takes it's cues from English Baroque style (though to a much more understated effect than St. Mary Woolnoth). It is dedicated to St. Mary of Antioch, and pattens refers to a type of shoe. Worshipers at St. Margaret Pattens had to remove their shoes upon entering the sanctuary. The original church (probably a wooden structure) was first recorded in 1067. A stone building was erected in the 1500s, but it was destroyed in the Great Fire. The present church was built in 1687 by Sir Christopher Wren. The 200ft high medieval style spire of the steeple, was a bit of a throwback for Wren, and is exceptionally eye catching as it sits among modern office blocks.

St. Dunstan-in-the-East

     St. Dunstan's is probably a case of saving the best for last. It's situated on Dunstan Hill half way between Tower Hill and London bridge, so it really is in the heart of London. Considering that, it's amazingly shielded from the hustle and bustle of the mega city by a sort of courtyard created by several tall (and very lucky) office buildings. I say lucky because St. Dunstan's is a treasure of calm and quiet. The original church, built in 1100 and dedicated to an English Bishop, was severely damaged in the Great Fire, but instead of rebuilding it, it was patched up and kept mostly intact. Sir Christopher Wren oversaw the repairs, and made improvements such as the gorgeous steeple which is of gothic design, keeping in style with the rest of the church. But Wren gave it a bit of a twist. The steeple's needle spire is held up by four flying buttresses. Also among the churches renovations were carvings and sculptures by Grinling Gibbons, famous English sculptor. His work can be seen in major churches and cathedrals all over England, including St. Paul's Cathedral and Westminster Abbey. St. Dunstan's must have been pretty special to attract the likes of Gibbons and Wren.

Sadly though, during WWII, a German bomb completely gutted the building. The walls and steeple were still standing but the roof and painstakingly restored interior were ruined. Instead of being demolished the church was turned in to a public garden. I think this may be my favorite place in all of London. It's perfect slice of heaven and it feels like not a single person in the City aware of it's existence. The urban garden is innovative in it's low-tech approach and includes an insect hotel to attract garden friendly bugs. Some of the modern stone work has been sensitively incorporated to enhance the space with out detracting from the beautiful medieval ruins. It's walled in on almost all sides by glass and cement office blocks, which aid in shutting out noise, and also hide it from passers by. You really have to know what you're looking for in order to find it, or otherwise happen upon it by total accident (like the room or requirement in Harry Potter). What I find most beautiful about St. Dunstan's is the metamorphosis the church has undergone over it's 900 year existence. Where there were once pews, now there is grass, trees and park benches. I can't imagine a more perfect oasis from this often overwhelming City. 

     Well that's it for now on London Churches. I hope to visit many more before I return to the US. I don't think I could possibly get through all of them, but who knows, maybe I'll pack some Red Bull and get an early start one of these days. I can't wait to explore more of London's churches. Whether they are grand and lofty, or small and quaint, even if they can hardly be called churches anymore from the damage they've suffered, I truly think they are all treasures.

Love you!

~Auntie~

Colchester Drawers

     This past week I went to Colchester with Jay to visit a city he spent a ton of his youth in. Jay went to school there for more than ten years, but we spent very little time at his former school and more time wandering all of the best bits of this lovely city, and discovering pieces of ancient history everywhere we looked. First a bit of background on Colchester: It is the oldest recorded town in England, being first recorded by Roman philosopher Pliny the Elder in AD 79, almost two thousand years ago (there is evidence, however, of a tribal settlement dating back three thousand years). In those days it was called Camulodenum which stems from the ancient Celtic language and its meaning was "The fortress of Camulos, god of war."  The Romans conquered Britain, which was inhabited at the time by Briton tribes, and much like Native Americans in North America, they struggled to maintain their identity, lands, and way of life. Camulodenum was the Roman capitol of Britain, not London (Londinium), which is the capitol now. To give this some perspective in terms of history, Pliny the Elder was mentioning Camulodenum less than one generation removed from Christ, and during the lives of the Apostles. The Apostle Paul was writing his letters as the Roman wall was being built in Ancient Colchester.

     Well, back to our day in the town. As soon as we parked the car the first thing that greeted us from across the highway was The Roman Wall. Now the wall itself is actually bits and chunks of wall strewn about the city, so it probably wasn't all one continuous wall, but rather the main walls that made up a Roman fortress town, and later a proper colony. The wall existed to protect the inhabitants from the savage Briton tribes to desperately sought to overthrow Roman rule. It's amazing enough that bits of wall are still standing after so much time, and the fact that they are so big and solid are a testament to Roman engineering. They cut and laid each stone, and they didn't have the luxury of cement (which hadn't been invented yet). They used whatever stone they could find. Over the centuries the pieces of walls have been bolstered by newer brick which easily stands out. When I first saw it I immediately reached out my hand to touch it. I don't know what I was expecting to feel, but I just though "what if I could go back and see all the things this wall has seen... how amazing would that be!?"

The wall in this location is more than twice the size of me!

That's more than 11 feet tall and a good 5 to 6 feet thick too.

It had to be big if it was going to protect all the people within.

The Western Gate in to Roman Colchester, circa AD 200.

The largest surviving gateway in Roman Britain.

It's called The Balkerne Gate, or more commonly The Hole in the Wall.

     At another location in Colchester there is another long stretch of Roman wall, this one smaller, but easier to climb all over (which I obviously did, because I can't just leave history well enough alone). being able to get up close to the wall means I was able to notice things that would not have been noticeable had there been a barrier forcing me to keep my distance. For instance, I saw that all of the ancient stones (meaning not the brick bits) were a mish-mosh of whatever they could find, including quartz, agate, and chunks of sea floor, complete with shells imbedded in it.

These two photos show a quartz stone and a sea-floor stone,

with small shells imbedded in it (which, when you're

climbing the wall, are dang sharp!)

This photo is of a stone that took me utterly by surprise.

When I first saw it I looked at Jay and said

"Is that a fossil?" he said "****, wow, it is."

So yea, you can find all sorts of goodies at the wall.

A model of the burning of the Roman temple at the Colchester Castle Museum.

     Here's an important piece of information: The Roman town of Camulodunum was dominated by a massive temple, which acted as the religious and economic center of Roman Britain. In the first century the temple became the site of a bloody massacre at the hands of Queen Boudica, who led an army of Britons to sack the city, killing 30,000 people. After many more victories she was later defeated by the Romans. Boudica has lived on in British myth and legend as a hero, with homages to her showing up all over the place, like the huge statue of her and her daughters across from the Houses of Parliament in London.

     Now standing on the site of the temple is Colchester Castle. It was commissioned by William the Conqueror, the first King of England, and designed by his Bishop of Rochester, Gundulf (not Gandalf) in AD 1069. Many of the bricks used are from dismantled Roman structures. In it's later history, after it was no longer used as a royal residence, the building has been used as a jail several times, a town hall, and a grain storage facility. Once it was even condemned, with the bricks valued at only £5 but not worth the labor to dismantle it. It was eventual purchase in the 1720's on behalf of the local MP, and it remained as part of his family's private estate for several generations until it formally became a museum. Within the museum is housed artifacts from archaeological sites all over Colchester. These artifacts span the long history of civilizations that have lived in the are, like the remains of the Roman temple and ancient tools and weapons.

There are a few large floor mosaics dating back to Roman occupation.

This one is one of the most complete.

Many bronze artifacts dug up are tools and armor.

     As we went walking through and around Colchester we'd periodically pass by some pretty old looking churches. One called St. Martins, had a sign out front welcoming visitors inside, so we decided to check it out. The nave (main sanctuary) and tower of the church date back to the 12th century, but like with the castle, many of the stones are Roman and were taken from former Roman structures. The tower outside was partially destroyed in the 1640's during the English Civil War (remember out friend Comwell?) A plaque inside the church instructs visitors to look outside for bullets still embedded in the tower. Nowadays St. Martins is used primarily as a community art center. There have been no services held there since the mid-18th century. Many churches have been made redundant in England due to people moving out of cities and into suburbs. It's sad to me that this church isn't being used anymore but it's great that it's still standing and open to visitors.

The inside of St. Martins there are pieces of Medieval wall paintings

that The Churches Conservation Trust are working to restore.

     Another fantastic Christian location in Colchester is St. Boltoph's Priory, which was the first Augustinian monastery in England. It was built AD 1103. The Priory closed in AD 1536 with King Henry VIII dissolution of the monasteries (as part of breaking away from the Catholic Church), but the building still survived as a church until the sacking of Colchester in the 1640's. Just like St. Martins, St. Boltophs was destroyed by Cromwell's forces during the English Civil War. The ruins remain, offering and amateur photographer a million stunning views. 

 

You definitely get a sense from these photos how spectacular this building used to be.

     So that just about cover's my trip to gorgeous Colchester. I hope you really liked it. I had a fabulous time get up close and personal with Ancient and Medieval British history. I loved every minute even more because, as you can see, it was a sunny, warm Spring day. The only thing that could have made it better was you guys! I miss you both and wish we could have gone adventuring in Colchester together!

Love You!

~Auntie~

For the Birds- Part 1

     One of the things I've come to learn about Jay, and indeed much of Britain, is that he loves wildlife. And not just the kind you see in zoos, but everyday wildlife like squirrels, cows, foxes, sheep and especially birds. In only a few short months I've become very, very well acquainted with the birds of Britain, and with Spring well and truly on its way I'm sure to spot many more. So in this blog I want to introduce you guys to some of the birds I've had the pleasure of seeing.

Coot

     Coots are really striking birds, with their black bodies and bright white crest on their faces. They are water birds that get their name form the sound they make. They are pretty common around here in the winter time. I often get them mixed up with Moorhens because I can never remember which has the white crest and which has the red.

Moorhen

     The most intriguing thing about Moorhens, in my opinion, is their massive dinosaur-like feet. They are shy but protective birds. Their name is actually a mispronunciation of their original name Marshhen. Moors are grassy, windy highlands, but Moorhens live in low wet marshes or near rivers.

Common Tern

     Common Terns look a lot like the seagulls we have in California, except they have a black tipped beak and a black cap on their heads. They live in colonies and migrate all over the world including, Europe, Asia, Africa, Australia, Canada and South America (So pretty much everywhere).

Grebe

     Jay was excited to on Saturday when we saw our first pair of Grebes. Believe it or not these birds are related to flamingos, but I don't see it. They have plumage (feathers) that change color according to the season. In the winter they are mostly white and brown, but when mating season comes along in the Spring they grow beautiful umber feathers to attract a mate. When they're just chicks though they have an almost zebra striped pattern.

Great Cormorant

     Cormorants are big, black water birds with long necks and an impressive wingspan. They look like prehistoric villains. I can totally imagine someone mistaking one for a pterodactyl. They live and fish in the cold waters around Britain and the Netherlands during the winter.

     These are some of the seabirds we saw. East Anglia (the region of England we live in) is known for attracting lots of seabirds because the water around here is rich with food like eels and fish. Next time I'll cover some of the other birds I've seen like wagtails and geese. I really enjoy getting to know all these birds, recognizing their calls, feeding them bread from the banks of the nearby river... I never felt compelled to do the same anywhere else. Maybe that's because out here I have Jay to tell me their names, and maybe one day I'll teach him about Californian birds.

Love you!

~Auntie~

Egg-cellent!

So last week I told you guys about the Big London Egg Hunt, where there are over 200 eggs strategically placed in various areas on London, waiting for you to discover. This past thursday I was in London, and while visiting with my friend Greg I kept my eyes peeled for eggs, and these are the few I found.

This one I found at a restaurant called Inn The Park, located in St. James's Park. The artist who created this piece is known for crocheting life-like animals. It's egg #71, and is titled the "Crochetdermy Fox". (By the way, this restaurant is really special to me because one of my first dates with Jay was here.)

Egg #31 is titled "Spring", and is by an Irish artist named Rebecca Campbell. The house in the background is called Duck Island Cottage, a picturesque little house in the middle of St. James's Park. It  used to serve as the house for the the caretaker of the park, but is now an office of the London Historic Parks and Gardens Trust.

This is Egg #32, named "Our Brood" and was done by a Canadian artist. This one has a fantastic view of St. James's Park Lake, and many of the birds that live there. (also this one really reminds me of The Partridge Family... ask Grandma and Grandpa) 

Egg #140 is by the leading mosaic artist in the UK, Elizabeth de Ath. The egg is called Regency Egg, and is located in an area called Southbank, which refers to the south bank of River Thames (the main water way in London). Southbank is home to The National Theatre, the British Film Institute, museums that are housed in converted industrial buildings like the Tate Modern, and the symbol of modern British engineering... The London Eye (which you can just about see in the upper left of the top photo).  All this modernity makes the placement of this egg very intriguing, since it references 1920's design.

This is a really cool egg by a young artist called Miss Dee. The neat thing about it is that is sorta tells a story. As you walk around it you see the story of this girl being swept up by the wind. Another thing that's cool is she only uses three colors, but captures a lot of detail and emotion. It's egg #5 and is titled "Around the World Before Bedtime."

Near Egg #5 is Egg #167, and it's called "White on Black: Sensuality and Restraint." The artist, Penny Fowler, is known for her ceramics work and fine china, which uses similar curvy designs. Also in the picture is Nelson's Column, monument in Trafalgar Square in honor of Admiral Horatio Nelson, the great British Naval hero of the Battle of Trafalgar. There are 2 really neat things I want to point out about his likeness at the top of the column. First, the sandstone statue at the top is 18ft tall, so that from the ground is looks like a normal sized man. And second, the statue is true to life, in that if you look at his right arm, you'll notice his sleeve is empty, because he lost his arm in battle.

Egg #77, is called "Blackberry Moon" and was created by fine artist Diana Ralston. I beautifully depicts wild blackberries by moonlight and is an excellent example of of flat 2D design can create a rich sense of depth. Even though all the leaves and berries are flat (even looking like they are cut outs or stickers) the repeated pattern of vines behind them make it seem like a forest of wild berries in and enchanted moonlight world. 

This egg, #40, is called "RGB+S" and is by Charnovsky (an Italian duo of modern artists). I very nearly walked right past this one because it was installed in a small empty shop and stood all on its own, without any fanfare. The artists are known for making crazy designs that are meant to interact with reflective chrome surfaces. This chrome egg plays double duty as a piece of art and a pendulum. It moves slightly and lights overhead change color, which means that as it interacts with the world it is a constantly changing piece of art.

I noticed Egg #54 when I saw a family in front of me point up towards the sky. If I hadn't looked up I never would have noticed it. It's called "Ouroboros" and is by a Scottish artist named Roland Corbin. Imagine all the artwork we miss by just not looking around.

 I found Egg #84, "Moonbow," down a swanky little street in Covent Garden, full of fashionably expensive boutiques. I liked this egg because it reminded me of when I drew rainbows as a kid. If you ran your fingers over the colored bands you could feel the ridges of paint.

"Kingdom Crossing" is Egg #13 by artist Caio Locke, and can also be found in the Covent Garden area. This egg is a psychedelic interpretation of the London, and include famous city landmarks like The Gerkhin. I love how the artist made skyscrapers look like waves and a nautical shell. 

Egg #206 is called The Mighty Moshi Egg and is covered in Super Moshi Monsters, which you can adopt and play with on MoshiMonsters.com and interact with other 6-12 year olds.

Egg #119 is called "OOOOF" and was made by typographic artist Kate Moross, whose work has featured in Vogue Magazine and in Nike adds. "OOOOF" is located in Covent Garden Market, where Jay and I spent time on our first date. The market is one of the most famous urban markets in the world and is also home to The Royal Opera House.

 So these are the eggs I've found so far. What do you think? Go back to the website and check out the other eggs. I'm bound to be back in London before the end of the hunt and I'd like to search for eggs you think are cool, funny, pretty or weird.

Love YOU!

~Auntie~