Colchester Drawers

     This past week I went to Colchester with Jay to visit a city he spent a ton of his youth in. Jay went to school there for more than ten years, but we spent very little time at his former school and more time wandering all of the best bits of this lovely city, and discovering pieces of ancient history everywhere we looked. First a bit of background on Colchester: It is the oldest recorded town in England, being first recorded by Roman philosopher Pliny the Elder in AD 79, almost two thousand years ago (there is evidence, however, of a tribal settlement dating back three thousand years). In those days it was called Camulodenum which stems from the ancient Celtic language and its meaning was "The fortress of Camulos, god of war."  The Romans conquered Britain, which was inhabited at the time by Briton tribes, and much like Native Americans in North America, they struggled to maintain their identity, lands, and way of life. Camulodenum was the Roman capitol of Britain, not London (Londinium), which is the capitol now. To give this some perspective in terms of history, Pliny the Elder was mentioning Camulodenum less than one generation removed from Christ, and during the lives of the Apostles. The Apostle Paul was writing his letters as the Roman wall was being built in Ancient Colchester.

     Well, back to our day in the town. As soon as we parked the car the first thing that greeted us from across the highway was The Roman Wall. Now the wall itself is actually bits and chunks of wall strewn about the city, so it probably wasn't all one continuous wall, but rather the main walls that made up a Roman fortress town, and later a proper colony. The wall existed to protect the inhabitants from the savage Briton tribes to desperately sought to overthrow Roman rule. It's amazing enough that bits of wall are still standing after so much time, and the fact that they are so big and solid are a testament to Roman engineering. They cut and laid each stone, and they didn't have the luxury of cement (which hadn't been invented yet). They used whatever stone they could find. Over the centuries the pieces of walls have been bolstered by newer brick which easily stands out. When I first saw it I immediately reached out my hand to touch it. I don't know what I was expecting to feel, but I just though "what if I could go back and see all the things this wall has seen... how amazing would that be!?"

The wall in this location is more than twice the size of me!

That's more than 11 feet tall and a good 5 to 6 feet thick too.

It had to be big if it was going to protect all the people within.

The Western Gate in to Roman Colchester, circa AD 200.

The largest surviving gateway in Roman Britain.

It's called The Balkerne Gate, or more commonly The Hole in the Wall.

     At another location in Colchester there is another long stretch of Roman wall, this one smaller, but easier to climb all over (which I obviously did, because I can't just leave history well enough alone). being able to get up close to the wall means I was able to notice things that would not have been noticeable had there been a barrier forcing me to keep my distance. For instance, I saw that all of the ancient stones (meaning not the brick bits) were a mish-mosh of whatever they could find, including quartz, agate, and chunks of sea floor, complete with shells imbedded in it.

These two photos show a quartz stone and a sea-floor stone,

with small shells imbedded in it (which, when you're

climbing the wall, are dang sharp!)

This photo is of a stone that took me utterly by surprise.

When I first saw it I looked at Jay and said

"Is that a fossil?" he said "****, wow, it is."

So yea, you can find all sorts of goodies at the wall.

A model of the burning of the Roman temple at the Colchester Castle Museum.

     Here's an important piece of information: The Roman town of Camulodunum was dominated by a massive temple, which acted as the religious and economic center of Roman Britain. In the first century the temple became the site of a bloody massacre at the hands of Queen Boudica, who led an army of Britons to sack the city, killing 30,000 people. After many more victories she was later defeated by the Romans. Boudica has lived on in British myth and legend as a hero, with homages to her showing up all over the place, like the huge statue of her and her daughters across from the Houses of Parliament in London.

     Now standing on the site of the temple is Colchester Castle. It was commissioned by William the Conqueror, the first King of England, and designed by his Bishop of Rochester, Gundulf (not Gandalf) in AD 1069. Many of the bricks used are from dismantled Roman structures. In it's later history, after it was no longer used as a royal residence, the building has been used as a jail several times, a town hall, and a grain storage facility. Once it was even condemned, with the bricks valued at only £5 but not worth the labor to dismantle it. It was eventual purchase in the 1720's on behalf of the local MP, and it remained as part of his family's private estate for several generations until it formally became a museum. Within the museum is housed artifacts from archaeological sites all over Colchester. These artifacts span the long history of civilizations that have lived in the are, like the remains of the Roman temple and ancient tools and weapons.

There are a few large floor mosaics dating back to Roman occupation.

This one is one of the most complete.

Many bronze artifacts dug up are tools and armor.

     As we went walking through and around Colchester we'd periodically pass by some pretty old looking churches. One called St. Martins, had a sign out front welcoming visitors inside, so we decided to check it out. The nave (main sanctuary) and tower of the church date back to the 12th century, but like with the castle, many of the stones are Roman and were taken from former Roman structures. The tower outside was partially destroyed in the 1640's during the English Civil War (remember out friend Comwell?) A plaque inside the church instructs visitors to look outside for bullets still embedded in the tower. Nowadays St. Martins is used primarily as a community art center. There have been no services held there since the mid-18th century. Many churches have been made redundant in England due to people moving out of cities and into suburbs. It's sad to me that this church isn't being used anymore but it's great that it's still standing and open to visitors.

The inside of St. Martins there are pieces of Medieval wall paintings

that The Churches Conservation Trust are working to restore.

     Another fantastic Christian location in Colchester is St. Boltoph's Priory, which was the first Augustinian monastery in England. It was built AD 1103. The Priory closed in AD 1536 with King Henry VIII dissolution of the monasteries (as part of breaking away from the Catholic Church), but the building still survived as a church until the sacking of Colchester in the 1640's. Just like St. Martins, St. Boltophs was destroyed by Cromwell's forces during the English Civil War. The ruins remain, offering and amateur photographer a million stunning views. 

 

You definitely get a sense from these photos how spectacular this building used to be.

     So that just about cover's my trip to gorgeous Colchester. I hope you really liked it. I had a fabulous time get up close and personal with Ancient and Medieval British history. I loved every minute even more because, as you can see, it was a sunny, warm Spring day. The only thing that could have made it better was you guys! I miss you both and wish we could have gone adventuring in Colchester together!

Love You!

~Auntie~

For the Birds- Part 1

     One of the things I've come to learn about Jay, and indeed much of Britain, is that he loves wildlife. And not just the kind you see in zoos, but everyday wildlife like squirrels, cows, foxes, sheep and especially birds. In only a few short months I've become very, very well acquainted with the birds of Britain, and with Spring well and truly on its way I'm sure to spot many more. So in this blog I want to introduce you guys to some of the birds I've had the pleasure of seeing.

Coot

     Coots are really striking birds, with their black bodies and bright white crest on their faces. They are water birds that get their name form the sound they make. They are pretty common around here in the winter time. I often get them mixed up with Moorhens because I can never remember which has the white crest and which has the red.

Moorhen

     The most intriguing thing about Moorhens, in my opinion, is their massive dinosaur-like feet. They are shy but protective birds. Their name is actually a mispronunciation of their original name Marshhen. Moors are grassy, windy highlands, but Moorhens live in low wet marshes or near rivers.

Common Tern

     Common Terns look a lot like the seagulls we have in California, except they have a black tipped beak and a black cap on their heads. They live in colonies and migrate all over the world including, Europe, Asia, Africa, Australia, Canada and South America (So pretty much everywhere).

Grebe

     Jay was excited to on Saturday when we saw our first pair of Grebes. Believe it or not these birds are related to flamingos, but I don't see it. They have plumage (feathers) that change color according to the season. In the winter they are mostly white and brown, but when mating season comes along in the Spring they grow beautiful umber feathers to attract a mate. When they're just chicks though they have an almost zebra striped pattern.

Great Cormorant

     Cormorants are big, black water birds with long necks and an impressive wingspan. They look like prehistoric villains. I can totally imagine someone mistaking one for a pterodactyl. They live and fish in the cold waters around Britain and the Netherlands during the winter.

     These are some of the seabirds we saw. East Anglia (the region of England we live in) is known for attracting lots of seabirds because the water around here is rich with food like eels and fish. Next time I'll cover some of the other birds I've seen like wagtails and geese. I really enjoy getting to know all these birds, recognizing their calls, feeding them bread from the banks of the nearby river... I never felt compelled to do the same anywhere else. Maybe that's because out here I have Jay to tell me their names, and maybe one day I'll teach him about Californian birds.

Love you!

~Auntie~

Egg-cellent!

So last week I told you guys about the Big London Egg Hunt, where there are over 200 eggs strategically placed in various areas on London, waiting for you to discover. This past thursday I was in London, and while visiting with my friend Greg I kept my eyes peeled for eggs, and these are the few I found.

This one I found at a restaurant called Inn The Park, located in St. James's Park. The artist who created this piece is known for crocheting life-like animals. It's egg #71, and is titled the "Crochetdermy Fox". (By the way, this restaurant is really special to me because one of my first dates with Jay was here.)

Egg #31 is titled "Spring", and is by an Irish artist named Rebecca Campbell. The house in the background is called Duck Island Cottage, a picturesque little house in the middle of St. James's Park. It  used to serve as the house for the the caretaker of the park, but is now an office of the London Historic Parks and Gardens Trust.

This is Egg #32, named "Our Brood" and was done by a Canadian artist. This one has a fantastic view of St. James's Park Lake, and many of the birds that live there. (also this one really reminds me of The Partridge Family... ask Grandma and Grandpa) 

Egg #140 is by the leading mosaic artist in the UK, Elizabeth de Ath. The egg is called Regency Egg, and is located in an area called Southbank, which refers to the south bank of River Thames (the main water way in London). Southbank is home to The National Theatre, the British Film Institute, museums that are housed in converted industrial buildings like the Tate Modern, and the symbol of modern British engineering... The London Eye (which you can just about see in the upper left of the top photo).  All this modernity makes the placement of this egg very intriguing, since it references 1920's design.

This is a really cool egg by a young artist called Miss Dee. The neat thing about it is that is sorta tells a story. As you walk around it you see the story of this girl being swept up by the wind. Another thing that's cool is she only uses three colors, but captures a lot of detail and emotion. It's egg #5 and is titled "Around the World Before Bedtime."

Near Egg #5 is Egg #167, and it's called "White on Black: Sensuality and Restraint." The artist, Penny Fowler, is known for her ceramics work and fine china, which uses similar curvy designs. Also in the picture is Nelson's Column, monument in Trafalgar Square in honor of Admiral Horatio Nelson, the great British Naval hero of the Battle of Trafalgar. There are 2 really neat things I want to point out about his likeness at the top of the column. First, the sandstone statue at the top is 18ft tall, so that from the ground is looks like a normal sized man. And second, the statue is true to life, in that if you look at his right arm, you'll notice his sleeve is empty, because he lost his arm in battle.

Egg #77, is called "Blackberry Moon" and was created by fine artist Diana Ralston. I beautifully depicts wild blackberries by moonlight and is an excellent example of of flat 2D design can create a rich sense of depth. Even though all the leaves and berries are flat (even looking like they are cut outs or stickers) the repeated pattern of vines behind them make it seem like a forest of wild berries in and enchanted moonlight world. 

This egg, #40, is called "RGB+S" and is by Charnovsky (an Italian duo of modern artists). I very nearly walked right past this one because it was installed in a small empty shop and stood all on its own, without any fanfare. The artists are known for making crazy designs that are meant to interact with reflective chrome surfaces. This chrome egg plays double duty as a piece of art and a pendulum. It moves slightly and lights overhead change color, which means that as it interacts with the world it is a constantly changing piece of art.

I noticed Egg #54 when I saw a family in front of me point up towards the sky. If I hadn't looked up I never would have noticed it. It's called "Ouroboros" and is by a Scottish artist named Roland Corbin. Imagine all the artwork we miss by just not looking around.

 I found Egg #84, "Moonbow," down a swanky little street in Covent Garden, full of fashionably expensive boutiques. I liked this egg because it reminded me of when I drew rainbows as a kid. If you ran your fingers over the colored bands you could feel the ridges of paint.

"Kingdom Crossing" is Egg #13 by artist Caio Locke, and can also be found in the Covent Garden area. This egg is a psychedelic interpretation of the London, and include famous city landmarks like The Gerkhin. I love how the artist made skyscrapers look like waves and a nautical shell. 

Egg #206 is called The Mighty Moshi Egg and is covered in Super Moshi Monsters, which you can adopt and play with on MoshiMonsters.com and interact with other 6-12 year olds.

Egg #119 is called "OOOOF" and was made by typographic artist Kate Moross, whose work has featured in Vogue Magazine and in Nike adds. "OOOOF" is located in Covent Garden Market, where Jay and I spent time on our first date. The market is one of the most famous urban markets in the world and is also home to The Royal Opera House.

 So these are the eggs I've found so far. What do you think? Go back to the website and check out the other eggs. I'm bound to be back in London before the end of the hunt and I'd like to search for eggs you think are cool, funny, pretty or weird.

Love YOU!

~Auntie~ 

The Big Egg Hunt!

     Hey guys! This Thursday I'll be heading in to London to hang out with a friend, and I thought while I was there I would take part in The Faberge Big Egg Hunt! The video below explains what it is, but what I want to know is which eggs do you want me to search for? The next blog will be about my adventures egg hunting, complete with photo evidence of my finds. Go check out the website and have a look at the eggs. I have my favorites, but I want to know which yours are. And if you have a spare $600 laying around you can even buy one of them ;)

The Fabergé Big Egg Hunt from we are fallon on Vimeo.

Love you!

~Auntie~

PS... Just found this video of some very special artists designing their egg for the hunt!

Ramm-speare Shake-stein Weekend- Part 2

     The Sunday of our most recent adventures took us to Stratford-upon-Avon, a town in the center of England that was the birthplace and final resting place of arguably the most famous Briton to ever... William Shakespeare. Often called England's National Poet, he wrote 38 plays and over 150 sonnets (poems) which have been translated in to every major language and inspired countless artists, writers, musicians, and movies.

The left most window belongs to the room where William Shakespeare was born.

There were two front doors, one for the house, the other for the workshop.

     Being in Stratford, in Shakespeare's home, walking where he walked... it was marvelous! We started our adventure by visiting Shakespeare's Birthplace. No one knows for sure when exactly he was born but he was baptized on 26th of April 1564. John Shakespeare, the poet's father, was a glove maker and wool dealer. The room that was his father's workshop has been restored with glove making tools, and the rest of the house has been furnished with items appropriate to the Renaissance period.

This trundle bed was used so that parents could keep

their small children nearby when they slept.

In those days only one in three children survived to adulthood.

     The room baby William was born it was once covered in graffiti from people carving their names in the walls and even the windows. A few of the multitude of names paying homage were author Charles Dickens, theologian Isaac Watts, and essayist Thomas Carlyle. Some even left messages thanking the bard for his inspiring works. The original, scribbled on window panes were saved but the rest of the room was repainted. The building had been an inn (The Swan and Maidenhead) for many years, until passing out of the family's ownership in the 18th century. When the house fell in to decay it was put up for sale. The cost to purchase it was  £3,000. It was bought on behalf of the nation by the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust (SBT) in 1847, and has since been a tourist attraction, a staging place for amateur performances, and the centerpiece to the dozen other SBT locations. Current members of the SBT are Dame Judi Dench and Sir Patrick Stewart, who lend their voices to a walk through video introduction to the house.

The garden at Shakespeare's Birthplace is the stage

for small summer productions of his plays.

     The next location we visited was called Hall's Croft, home to Shakespeare's daughter Susanna and her husband, Dr. John Hall. It is a wonderfully preserved Jacobean era house that is home to a museum quality collection of paintings. The home is filled with the artifacts of home and professional life in that era. John Hall was cutting edge for his time, and had a successful practice based on herbal and mineral treatment. His medical notes made up large portions of medical textbooks for many years. By all accounts he was a well liked son-in-law, even treating Shakespeare in his declining years.

     Susanna was Shakespeare's eldest child, and his only heir. Her twin siblings Hamnet and Judith were left out of their father's will because Hamnet had died as a boy and Judith had an untrustworthy husband. Susanna herself was a strong and opinionated woman, even able to defend her reputation when a local man slandered her with accusations of an affair. You can imagine the kind of sharp witted woman she must have been with William Shakespeare for a father and a successful doctor for a husband. Something tells me this lady could take care of herself.

Her epitaph (which was probably written by daughter Elizabeth) at Holy Trinity Church:

"Witty above her sex, but that's not all,
Wise to Salvation was good Mistress Hall,
Something of Shakespeare was in that, but this
Wholly of him with whom she's now in blisse.
Then, passenger, hast nere a tear
To weep with her that wept with all
That wept, yet set herself to chere
Them up with comforts cordiall?
Her love shall live, her mercy spread
When thou hast nere a tear to shed."

     The back garden of Hall's Croft is a walled off grassy oasis. What made it particularly delightful was that it was the first warm sunny day I've experienced since arriving in the UK. We found a nice bench to sit on and soaked up the sun, surrounded by fragrant herbs and newly blossoming flowers. It was glorious! I didn't want to leave!

This herb garden contains plants that would have

been used by John Hall in his medical practice.

He treated rich and poor a like.

While this building dated to 1210, people have worshipped God

here for over 1100 years as evidence by its mention in a charter from 845.

     Our next stop was Holy Trinity Church (pictured above). In terms of landmarks, this one had the most historical significance, because it was here that almost all records of William Shakespeare were taken and preserved. Everything from his baptism, marriage to Anne Hathaway, the births and baptisms of his children and his death are all registered here. In the large chancel, just beyond the main sanctuary of the church is the very grave of William Shakespeare. He is surrounded by his wife, Anne, their daughter Susanna and her husband John Hall, and his granddaughter's husband John Nash.

Pages from the original church register are on display showing the records of

Shakespeare's baptism and death. Church registers were like birth and death

certificates in those days. He was baptized April 26, 1564 and

died April 23, 1616. Can you find his name?

     The last location on our adventure was a good thirty minute walk from the center of town... Anne Hathaway's Cottage, which is the best preserved of the three homes visited. Several generations of Hathaway's lived in this cottage until it was purchased, along with the existing furnishings, by the SBT in 1892. Much of the interior is just as it had been during Anne's life. She was the daughter of a well-to-do farmer when, at the age of 26, she became pregnant with 18 year old William's child. They had a quick wedding, but no matter how rushed their courtship and nuptials were there is plenty of evidence to prove their marriage was full of affection.

Sonnet 145 includes a pun on Anne's name with "hate away" sounding like Hathaway.

     The Hathaway home was originally a farm house, with the garden you see in these picture once being part of the much larger farm. The cottage is often described as the most romantic of all the SBT locations, and it's easy to see why. The timbered cottage is beautifully preserved with it's thatched roof, original fixtures and historically significant furniture (including the Hathaway bed which dates back to Shakespeare's time). 

That is a really fancy bed.

The picturesque side garden had just started sprouting new spring flowers.

Flora and fauna feature in almost all of Shakespeare's works, and are

often used as symbols or metaphors.

     The rest of the garden features winding footpaths, benches to sit and take in the scenery, and exhibition spaces for out door art and interactive medias, including a bench with a built in stereo that plays recordings of Shakespeare's most famous sonnets. The entire place is made for visitors to interact with in the hopes they'll be put in a state to best understand Shakespeare's romantic writings.

     That just about concludes my Shakespeare filled day. I could have gone on and on, but really I think you'd get bored. William Shakespeare has pretty much been an ever present figure in my consciousness, which is what makes visiting Stratford-upon-Avon so fulfilling for me. I've loved his stories since I was a kid, having been introduced to them through film adaptations (a favorite being Much Ado About Nothing) and then later on when I studied them in school. You can see all around the town of Stratford how Shakespeare could have been inspired and influenced, and it's undeniable that he inspired and influenced the town. You can see it in the names of shops, pubs and street, you can see it in the statues erected all around the town center of his indelible characters, on the plaques quoting his verses... there are even free impromptu street performances of his work for the enjoyment of anyone and everyone within earshot.

     This year I'm going to make a concerted effort to broaden my awareness of Shakespeare by reading 4 of his plays: Richard II, Henry IV Part 1, Henry IV Part 2, and Henry V (all of which are being produced as TV movies this year). I also want to return to his hometown in April for the Shakespeare Birthday Celebrations. I hope this inspires you both to learn about Shakespeare yourselves. I'm sure Grandpa would love to help you out with that.

Love you both!

~Auntie~